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...A second visit in early February, this time for dinner, confirmed the quality of the cuisine. A terrine of lobster, mango and baby vegetables, smoked duck, mangetout salad with Bourbon-vanilla perfumed oil, was delightfully smooth and the flavours married perfectly, whilst the crab and chilli accras was just as delicately flavoured as the the one we had on the first visit. The pavé of beef, cep mushrooms, wasabi-tinged sauce, baby spinach, Pont Neuf potatoes was a masterpiece - succulent and cooked exactly as ordered, but the roast lamb cutlet, samosa of lamb with spices, lamb juices spiced with thyme and anis was a little dry and the samosa was a little bland. For desserts, the crispy banana brûlée was outstanding and the ‘cappuccino’ and the chocolate mousse were excellent. The dessert chef here deserves a special mention!
The wine list is still evolving, if one wants to be kind. Sure, there is a good selection of wines from the Languedoc which we believe were brought over from the cellars in Montpelier, and there are some reasonable Bordeaux and Burgundies, but the attempt to globalise the wine list is pitiful, with poor choices from America and Australia in particular. Wines by-the-glass are adequate but not special, but on our second visit I chose (more by luck than judgment, because there was nobody around to help with the choice) an excellent wine from the Languedoc, Ch. Puech-Haut ‘Tête de Cuvée’ 2000, which had real depth of flavour and smoothness and was reasonably priced at £32 for the quality. However, a glass of rosé Champagne (and a pretty indifferent one, at that) at £12 a glass, was not. I think that the restaurant owners must make up their minds as to whether they want to be considered as just a restaurant from Montpelier, or whether they want to be a global player.
The wine list is still evolving, if one wants to be kind. Sure, there is a good selection of wines from the Languedoc which we believe were brought over from the cellars in Montpelier, and there are some reasonable Bordeaux and Burgundies, but the attempt to globalise the wine list is pitiful, with poor choices from America and Australia in particular. Wines by-the-glass are adequate but not special, but on our second visit I chose (more by luck than judgment, because there was nobody around to help with the choice) an excellent wine from the Languedoc, Ch. Puech-Haut ‘Tête de Cuvée’ 2000, which had real depth of flavour and smoothness and was reasonably priced at £32 for the quality. However, a glass of rosé Champagne (and a pretty indifferent one, at that) at £12 a glass, was not. I think that the restaurant owners must make up their minds as to whether they want to be considered as just a restaurant from Montpelier, or whether they want to be a global player.
...Service was still a bit chaotic in January, despite the small number of customers present, there seemed to be too many chiefs and not enough Indians, but we are sure that this would be rectified in due course. The February visit was marginally better, but once again, there seemed to be a lack of co-ordination amongst the staff. Perhaps because the front-of-house manager was absent that night.
All in all, this is a good experience, with plenty of potential to improve and to induct the restaurant onto the Michelin-star ladder. What is striking at the moment is the gentleness of the prices, (except for wines) considering the quality of the cuisine, the décor and the staffing levels. Let’s hope it will continue to do so and not get into the silly pricing of its mentor establishment. Competition is a lot fiercer in London than in Montpelier, but the reward will be a continually full restaurant and satisfied customers even if it is a big place to fill (150 covers).
Restaurant Ratings...
Food 48
Wine list 12
Service 7
Ambience 5
Value for money 12
Total 84
W’Sens, 12 Waterloo Place, London SW1Y 4AU.
Tel: 020 7484 1355, Fax: 020 7484 1366.
Email: reservations@wsens.co.uk
www.wsens.co.uk
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner all week.
Credit cards: All major credit cards.
Average à la carte spend (without wine): £40-50 plus 12.5% service. Fixed price lunch menus: £17.50, £20 and £25, plus 12.5% service.
Breakfast: £8 - £17.75, plus 12.5% service.
All in all, this is a good experience, with plenty of potential to improve and to induct the restaurant onto the Michelin-star ladder. What is striking at the moment is the gentleness of the prices, (except for wines) considering the quality of the cuisine, the décor and the staffing levels. Let’s hope it will continue to do so and not get into the silly pricing of its mentor establishment. Competition is a lot fiercer in London than in Montpelier, but the reward will be a continually full restaurant and satisfied customers even if it is a big place to fill (150 covers).
Restaurant Ratings...
Food 48
Wine list 12
Service 7
Ambience 5
Value for money 12
Total 84
W’Sens, 12 Waterloo Place, London SW1Y 4AU.
Tel: 020 7484 1355, Fax: 020 7484 1366.
Email: reservations@wsens.co.uk
www.wsens.co.uk
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner all week.
Credit cards: All major credit cards.
Average à la carte spend (without wine): £40-50 plus 12.5% service. Fixed price lunch menus: £17.50, £20 and £25, plus 12.5% service.
Breakfast: £8 - £17.75, plus 12.5% service.
