WHITE RHONES

 

Most white Rhônes from the north are either Marsanne or a Marsanne/Roussanne blend. Total area grows about 80% Marsanne to 20% Roussanne. Marsanne is considered to be a cépage with considerable ageing potential, whilst Roussanne, being lighter and more precocious, is sometimes blended in to give a bit more freshness to the Marsanne. Roussanne on its own is considered good for keeping not more than 3 years.  Having said that, there is also the complication of whether to oak or not to oak. Generally speaking, Marsanne wines, or those with a high Marsanne content are oaked, but rarely with new oak, with some producers using barriques or, more commonly, demi-muids up to seven years old.

 

This causes a lot of variations in the wines and the style of winemaking from one producer to another varies enormously, even within the same appellation. Personally, I have found most of the Marsanne dominated wines prone to oxidation - but this could happen after one year or ten - I can't give you the explanation why.

 

I went on a press trip to the Rhône Valley recently and the best whites I tasted on my trip was a 2006 white Crozes Hermitage from Alain Graillot - 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne and about 95% oaked of which about 5% was new - very fresh and zingy - no malo so instantly quaffable, and on the other hand, a 2005 white Hermitage from Cave Fayolle Fils et Fille - 100% Marsanne, old oak, big depth of fruit and lots of character, really quite delicious now - but how will it be in 10 years time? I think that's a risk. So my advice is - if you have any white Rhônes - drink them sooner rather than later.