Bryan and Susan Webb, formerly of Hilaire Restaurant in South Kensington, insist on calling their country house hotel a "Restaurant with Rooms." Well, we suppose it is and there is nothing wrong with having the emphasis on the food, especially when it has been cooked by one of the best chefs in the country. But the hotel bit is pretty good, too.
It has been a bit of a shock to the system for them to up sticks from the bustling life in ‘the smoke’ and to plant themselves in idyllic rurality. Well, they do need to re-charge their batteries when they can get away from being full-time hoteliers (not an easy thing), so they do try and trot off to London at every opportunity. But opportunities are rare in this business, so perhaps the next best thing is for them to bring a little piece of "Hilaire" to this hitherto gastronomically unremarkable part of Wales.
There is an ‘at home’ feeling with the large lounge taking up a huge corner of the house. The house itself is unremarkable, a rambling Georgian manse just outside the village of Llandrillo, and the bedrooms which are prettily decorated, vary in size and amenities. The three new bedrooms (now making a total of 13 in all) are the most spacious with the best facilities. All the rooms have the now obligatory CD player as well as television, bath robes etc.
Breakfasts are gargantuan, with lots of choices and, of course, lots of high quality fresh ingredients that are perfectly cooked.