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COMIN' THROUGH THE RYE BREAD
The Tauberfranken area of Germany was the birthplace of the Teutonic Order in the 13th. Century, with various city-states ruling over and protecting the peasants who lived outside the city walls in return for agricultural products and taxes. The steep hillsides of mainly limestone and slate were planted with many vineyards and whilst the food produced in the area is pretty top quality (particularly the different kinds of breads), the wines, over the last 100 years or so, have been so mediocre that they have formed the basis of that great German drink - Liebfraumilch!
A few years ago, a number of young vignerons decided that the area WAS capable of producing quality wines and so with careful husbandry and drastic reduction in yields, they set about trying to destroy this unflattering image of wine production in the region and marketing some very serious wines.
It has been a long, hard, slog for them, but one producer in particular, has now reached international stardom. We visited him and three other young producers in the area and here are the results of our findings...
The star of the show is Horst Sauer. There had been wine production in his family for four generations, but it is only since the 1970’s that a quantum leap forward in quality occurred. His estate now consists of around 13 hectares, mainly on the Eschendorfer Lump, a uniquely steep, south facing hillside location with a very special microclimate which collects every ray of sunshine throughout the year, thus protecting the vines from the cold north and east winds. The result gives wines of concentrated fruit, with a great capacity to age. Varietals produced are Silvaner (33%), Müller-Thurgau (24%), Riesling (15%), Kerner (6%), Bacchus (8%), Scheurebe (3%), Pinot Blanc (4%) and red varietals (7%).
The following wines were tasted...
Horst Sauer...
Frank & Frei Müller-Thurgau Qba trocken 2005 - 12%abv.
This is a good entry-level wine made from bought-in grapes, but it shows how vibrant this varietal can be in the hands of a good winemaker. Spicy and fresh. 86pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Kabinett trocken 2005 - 12% abv.
Very recently bottled and not quite together yet. A little bit acidic with a whiff of wet hay on the nose. Should settle over the next few months. 83pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Spätlese trocken 2005 - 13.5% abv.
This is much better balanced - quite dry with rounded fullness in the mouth and vibrant fruit. 87pts.
The Tauberfranken area of Germany was the birthplace of the Teutonic Order in the 13th. Century, with various city-states ruling over and protecting the peasants who lived outside the city walls in return for agricultural products and taxes. The steep hillsides of mainly limestone and slate were planted with many vineyards and whilst the food produced in the area is pretty top quality (particularly the different kinds of breads), the wines, over the last 100 years or so, have been so mediocre that they have formed the basis of that great German drink - Liebfraumilch!
A few years ago, a number of young vignerons decided that the area WAS capable of producing quality wines and so with careful husbandry and drastic reduction in yields, they set about trying to destroy this unflattering image of wine production in the region and marketing some very serious wines.
It has been a long, hard, slog for them, but one producer in particular, has now reached international stardom. We visited him and three other young producers in the area and here are the results of our findings...
The star of the show is Horst Sauer. There had been wine production in his family for four generations, but it is only since the 1970’s that a quantum leap forward in quality occurred. His estate now consists of around 13 hectares, mainly on the Eschendorfer Lump, a uniquely steep, south facing hillside location with a very special microclimate which collects every ray of sunshine throughout the year, thus protecting the vines from the cold north and east winds. The result gives wines of concentrated fruit, with a great capacity to age. Varietals produced are Silvaner (33%), Müller-Thurgau (24%), Riesling (15%), Kerner (6%), Bacchus (8%), Scheurebe (3%), Pinot Blanc (4%) and red varietals (7%).
The following wines were tasted...
Horst Sauer...
Frank & Frei Müller-Thurgau Qba trocken 2005 - 12%abv.
This is a good entry-level wine made from bought-in grapes, but it shows how vibrant this varietal can be in the hands of a good winemaker. Spicy and fresh. 86pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Kabinett trocken 2005 - 12% abv.
Very recently bottled and not quite together yet. A little bit acidic with a whiff of wet hay on the nose. Should settle over the next few months. 83pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Spätlese trocken 2005 - 13.5% abv.
This is much better balanced - quite dry with rounded fullness in the mouth and vibrant fruit. 87pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Riesling Spätlese trocken 2005 - 12.5% abv.
A great deal of elegance already showing in this wine from this very fine vintage. Finishes long and complex. 90pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner trocken Grosses Gewächs 2004 - 13.5% abv.
Very good body again with fine balance and weight in the mouth to give it some richness. Grosses Gewächs indicates reserve quality. 91pts.
"Sehnsucht" Silvaner trocken 2004 - 13% abv.
This is a partially oaked wine which does seem to dominate the fruit and takes away a bit of the finesse that one would associate with this producer. 83pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Scheurebe Spätlese 2004- 12% abv.
Stylish and elegant with nuances of lychee on the palate. 90pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Riesling Beerenauslese 2004- 7% abv.
A great deal of finesse although without a great deal of intensity. A good candidate for foie gras? 91pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Trockenbeerenauslese 2004 - 7% abv.
There is much greater intensity in this wine - 100% botrytised reaching 185 öchsle (measure of sugar). Too sweet for the foie gras - just sip it, but better still, leave it for a few years. 95pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Trockenbeerenauslese 2002 - 7% abv.
Even after a couple of years the intensity is just growing and growing, but it will keep for many more years yet. For the moment I'm giving it 97pts. but who knows where it will be in a few year's time!
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Eiswein 2004 -
8% abv.
This has really honeyed sweetness, but maybe just lacking the balance of the TBA. 93pts.
Horst Sauer Bocksbeutelstrasse 14, 97332 Eschendorf, Germany. Tel: 00 49 9381 4364, Fax: 00 49 9381 6843, E-mail: mail@weingut-horst-sauer.de
www.weingut-horst-sauer.de
UK distributors: Noel Young Wines, Justerini & Brooks.
A great deal of elegance already showing in this wine from this very fine vintage. Finishes long and complex. 90pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner trocken Grosses Gewächs 2004 - 13.5% abv.
Very good body again with fine balance and weight in the mouth to give it some richness. Grosses Gewächs indicates reserve quality. 91pts.
"Sehnsucht" Silvaner trocken 2004 - 13% abv.
This is a partially oaked wine which does seem to dominate the fruit and takes away a bit of the finesse that one would associate with this producer. 83pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Scheurebe Spätlese 2004- 12% abv.
Stylish and elegant with nuances of lychee on the palate. 90pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Riesling Beerenauslese 2004- 7% abv.
A great deal of finesse although without a great deal of intensity. A good candidate for foie gras? 91pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Trockenbeerenauslese 2004 - 7% abv.
There is much greater intensity in this wine - 100% botrytised reaching 185 öchsle (measure of sugar). Too sweet for the foie gras - just sip it, but better still, leave it for a few years. 95pts.
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Trockenbeerenauslese 2002 - 7% abv.
Even after a couple of years the intensity is just growing and growing, but it will keep for many more years yet. For the moment I'm giving it 97pts. but who knows where it will be in a few year's time!
Eschendorfer Lump Silvaner Eiswein 2004 -
8% abv.
This has really honeyed sweetness, but maybe just lacking the balance of the TBA. 93pts.
Horst Sauer Bocksbeutelstrasse 14, 97332 Eschendorf, Germany. Tel: 00 49 9381 4364, Fax: 00 49 9381 6843, E-mail: mail@weingut-horst-sauer.de
www.weingut-horst-sauer.de
UK distributors: Noel Young Wines, Justerini & Brooks.
