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N. American pinot noir
‘La Spinetta’ is a major success story in Italy. Here, we tell you about family and their wines.

When Giovanni Rivetti emigrated to Argentina from his beloved Piemonte about a hundred years ago, he was already dreaming of returning back home to buy himself a little vineyard to produce his own wine.
Unfortunately, he could not make it but his son Giuseppe (nicknamed Pin) did and returned to Piemonte where in 1977, he bought a smallholding on a hill called L'Annunziata in the locality of Castagnole Lanze (Asti), the centre of production for best quality Moscato. The Estate was called LA SPINETTA which means "top of the hill", and "top" is what the Rivettis have been striving for ever since.

Their three sons, Giancarlo (1952), Bruno (1954), and Giorgio (1957) joined the family business and infused new energy and modern ideas. They now run the show since their parent's death, with Giorgio very much in the vanguard, ably assisted by their elder sister, Giovanna, who is in charge of vineyard production.

They first improved the Moscato which became renowned all over the world and soon expanded the vines from Castagnole Lanze into other great terroirs, reaching an area of 100 hectares in Piemonte alone. Their first Barbera dates from 1985, the first "Pin", made out of a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon (a revolutionary idea at the time) from 1989. The "Lidia" Chardonnay was conceived in 1993, the first of the Barbarescos (Gallina) in 1995 and finally Barolo Campe in 2000 which is produced at a new facility at Grinzane Cavour, in the heart of the Barolo appellation. Going beyond Piemonte, the Rivetti family has expanded into Tuscany with 15 hectares of Sangiovese vines in Cascina Terme, and another 42 hectares in Terricciola. By the end of this year, they hope to be producing the wines in situ in their new winery and outbuildings in the Pisan hills.

With Dürer's Rhinoceros as their logo, their main objective is quality, quality and quality, epitomised by their 'Pin' (the name of the father) and 'Lidia '(the name of the mother) wines, with which they pay homage and respect to their parents. By now La Spinetta has become world renowned and the wines are highly sought after by connoisseurs. You should make every effort to taste or (even better) drink La Spinetta's wines - you won't be disappointed!
...At the beginning of December 2005 I visited the Rivettis and tasted the following wines...

LANGHE BIANCO 2003 (Sauvignon Blanc) Italian Sauvignon Blancs can be something of an acquired taste - they are nothing like the New Zealand ones and are usually matured in a little oak, which gives the wine more depth and substance but far less obvious upfront fruit. So if you are not into alcoholic tropical fruit juice, this may be the one for you, although I don't think that it is imported into the UK. 50% of the wine has spent 6 months in oak, so it's not too oaky, but at the tasting it was still a bit tight and closed up. Nevertheless, there was a fresh and tangy taste to it with a nice complex finish. Drink 2006 to 2010. 85pts.

CHARDONNAY "LIDIA" 2003. This wine had spent 12 months in oak (50% new, 50% 1 year old) but again the oak was not intrusive. The balance between the fruit and the acidity was very good and it was already beginning to show light buttery characteristics which enhanced the feeling of finesse. However, the wine also showed good structure and persistence on the finish. Ideally this should be put away for a couple of years and will last a further decade at least. 90pts.

IL NERO DI CASANOVA 2004. This is the currently available wine from their vineyards in the Pisan hills. The grapes were shipped up to Piemonte and were crushed and the wine made there. Next vintage will be made in Tuscany. It is made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino, the latter giving it tremendous depth of character and structure, if perhaps adding a little bitterness to the finish, although there is plenty of fruit beneath the tannins. It's still a pretty raw and intense wine, but reflects a good expression of the terroir. You might compare it to some of those big, strapping Aussie jobs, but without the jammy fruit. In 2 or 3 years time this will be a terrific drink and the good news about it is that it will probably retail for under £10, which is dirt cheap for a Spinetta wine. 84pts.


Another wine, "Sezzana" is made from their Tuscan holdings - the 2001 was superb and the 2003 should be released either later this year or early next year. It's a good class up from "Il Nero", but so is the price!
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