What’s it like at a three star Michelin icon?
We review the restaurant at length...
But we stayed there, too – in the Michelin, it is described as a “Restaurant with Rooms”. Our room was great. It was tastefully furnished in a thoroughly modern way, was spacious, had a lovely practical bathroom and we nearly fell over ourselves when the receptionist who showed us our room told us that the mini bar was free. Wow! Never come across that before! Alas, there was nothing alcoholic in the mini bar, so we had to be content with water, coke and juices. Tant pis. But, considering that it is three-star Michelin and Relais Château to boot, at €170 for the room (without breakfast), it represented good value. Perhaps the same couldn’t be said for the breakfast – at €22 per person for a ‘Continental’ – it was a bit miniscule.
The hotel also has an outdoor swimming pool and beautiful gardens which makes it a very civilised place to stay – particularly in the summer. However, we were a little put off by the attitudes and the blatant commercialism of the whole place. There’s the shop (selling Jardin des Sens products, the cookery school across the road, the satellite restaurants (of which there are now half a dozen or so and more in the pipeline) – all supported by slick marketing which does give the impression that the organisation is driven more by a passion for money than a passion for food.
Don’t get us wrong. For the gastronomic purist, the food was hard to beat anywhere in the world. But we didn’t feel comfortable – as if we were intruding in a private world of stars and the super rich, with some (but not all) of the staff walking around with mild arrogance as if they were saying to you “we are three star Michelin – and we know it.”