







SARDINIA NOT COSTA SMERALDA (PART TWO)
...Aside the Nuraghic civilisation, you have the Phoenician and Punic remains dating
4th and 3rd century BC with their own beautiful additions, Roman baths, theatres,
in such wonderful condition you could almost imagine their past! Menhirs and dolmens
(remember Brittany?) Domus de Janas (house of fairies, isn’ t it a lovely name for
a burial ground?) Tombe dei Giganti, pozzi sacri, (sacred wells), all there, in situ
and looking grand! To me one of the best archeological experiences I have ever had,
and we did not even see half of it. An experience that almost surpassed my eeriness
at the sight of Macchu Pichu in Peru 25 years ago.
To crown it all, you have the local traditions, the colourful processions, the celebrations
in full costumes either for a saint or a local festival, especially in the hills
such as in Monte Ortobene, near Nuoro, celebrating the festival of the Redentore
(Redeemer). I could go on for ever, but this is not an essay on Sardinia but the
reflection of our enthusiasm on discovering such a wonderful place, with local food
like curacu bread (also called carta di musica, it is so, so thin and delicious!)
suckling pig, kid, lamb, their antipasti, their home-made pasta everywhere. What
a beautiful experience!
from A to B with astonishing rapidity, but that’s no fun – it’ s the really wiggley
ones that you really want to try! And the spectacular scenery that they go through
makes the effort worthwhile. Of course, by sticking to the little roads, you totally
underestimate the time it takes to get from A to B, but Sardinia is not a big island
and there are seaside resorts everywhere to cater for the homeless. Underestimate
we did, which is why we only managed to see half the island in our allotted time.
So we are looking forward to doing the other half next year when we will report on
that and also our overall impressions of the island as a whole. In touring Sardinia,
it doesn’ t really matter where you start or finish, the majestic scenery, the historical
sites and above all the warmth of the people (unlike the Corsicans – but that’ s
another story) will make you want to return again and again.


