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I was very pleased to be invited to a book launch of "The Untold Story of North American Pinot Noir" by John Winthrop Haeger in London, where, as by way of illustration, there were 19 American Pinot Noirs to taste, most of which are not available in the UK. There were a few importers there, so hopefully, in the not too distant future, some of them will bring in a few of the best for your enjoyment.
The book, which gives a really in-depth insight to North American Pinot Noirs, is published by the University of California Press, but should be available in the UK at good bookshops. It's priced around £24, which is what you would pay for a good quality American Pinot Noir, and if you have difficulty finding the book, visit the UCP website, www.ucpress.edu.
The wines on display were a mixture of good, bad and indifferent, but there were some real gems among them, and whilst not wishing to bore you with tasting notes on all 19, here are my thoughts on the seven which scored 90 points or more.
1. Tandem Winery Sonoma Mountain Pinot Noir, Van der Kamp Vineyard 2002
This is good, rich, PInot Noir, in almost a Burgundian style - slightly farmyard on the nose, a full mouthful with great persistence on the finish. Hints of griottines on the palate and a not too tannic structure make this a pleasant enough wine to drink now, but would have some five to ten years maturity left at least. 94 points
2. Carneros Pinot Noir "Reserve" 2000 - Saintsbury
For many years, Saintsbury has been among the foremost Pinot Noir producers in California, and this wine has great complexity of fruit, good balance and a smooth finish. This is another wine that has some mileage to maturity. Available in the UK from Adnams at around £25 a bottle. www.adnamswines.co.uk.
93 points
3. Campion Wines Edna Valley Pinot Noir 2001
Initially, quite straight forward on the palate, but delivers well in the middle with an explosion of fruit flavours and complexity. Needs time to develop.
92 points
The book, which gives a really in-depth insight to North American Pinot Noirs, is published by the University of California Press, but should be available in the UK at good bookshops. It's priced around £24, which is what you would pay for a good quality American Pinot Noir, and if you have difficulty finding the book, visit the UCP website, www.ucpress.edu.
The wines on display were a mixture of good, bad and indifferent, but there were some real gems among them, and whilst not wishing to bore you with tasting notes on all 19, here are my thoughts on the seven which scored 90 points or more.
1. Tandem Winery Sonoma Mountain Pinot Noir, Van der Kamp Vineyard 2002
This is good, rich, PInot Noir, in almost a Burgundian style - slightly farmyard on the nose, a full mouthful with great persistence on the finish. Hints of griottines on the palate and a not too tannic structure make this a pleasant enough wine to drink now, but would have some five to ten years maturity left at least. 94 points
2. Carneros Pinot Noir "Reserve" 2000 - Saintsbury
For many years, Saintsbury has been among the foremost Pinot Noir producers in California, and this wine has great complexity of fruit, good balance and a smooth finish. This is another wine that has some mileage to maturity. Available in the UK from Adnams at around £25 a bottle. www.adnamswines.co.uk.
93 points
3. Campion Wines Edna Valley Pinot Noir 2001
Initially, quite straight forward on the palate, but delivers well in the middle with an explosion of fruit flavours and complexity. Needs time to develop.
92 points
...4. Chehelam Wines Willamette Valley Pinot Noir "Riori Reserve" 2001
This is very smooth with goodish length and a fullness in the mouth which is most pleasant. There is a certain amount of weight in the wine which ensures some longevity. 92 points
5. Quail's Gate Winery Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir 2001 “Family Reserve”
A Canadian entry, just a little on the light side, but nice structure running through it which will give it staying power. Lots of finesse and a good long finish on the palate. 90 points
6. Carneros Pinot Noir 2001 - Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves
As you can see from the producer's name, they are really sparkling wine specialists, but this effort is a big Pinot Noir with lots of tannic structure. There is a lot of fruit, however, beneath the tannins and I think that this will develop well in the next few years. This wine is available in the UK from www.everywine.co.uk at around £175 a case. 90 points
7. Cristom “Jessie Vineyard” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2000
Smooth on the palate, the fruit is still masked by big tannins, but obvious quality is there indicated by the complexity and length on the palate. This has the makings of a superb wine, but you will have to be patient. Maybe in a few years time we would give this a higher rating. .Available in the UK from The Wine Treasury at £35.90 a bottle on www.winetreasury.com 90 points
As you can see, the wines are not cheap, although the Gloria Ferrer seems to be the best value for money. Those not available in the UK are unlikely to retail at much under £30, but compared to some Burgundy prices, the top American Pinot Noirs are not out of line. Don't make the mistake of comparing them with Burgundies - the best ones are just as enjoyable in their own way.
This is very smooth with goodish length and a fullness in the mouth which is most pleasant. There is a certain amount of weight in the wine which ensures some longevity. 92 points
5. Quail's Gate Winery Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir 2001 “Family Reserve”
A Canadian entry, just a little on the light side, but nice structure running through it which will give it staying power. Lots of finesse and a good long finish on the palate. 90 points
6. Carneros Pinot Noir 2001 - Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves
As you can see from the producer's name, they are really sparkling wine specialists, but this effort is a big Pinot Noir with lots of tannic structure. There is a lot of fruit, however, beneath the tannins and I think that this will develop well in the next few years. This wine is available in the UK from www.everywine.co.uk at around £175 a case. 90 points
7. Cristom “Jessie Vineyard” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2000
Smooth on the palate, the fruit is still masked by big tannins, but obvious quality is there indicated by the complexity and length on the palate. This has the makings of a superb wine, but you will have to be patient. Maybe in a few years time we would give this a higher rating. .Available in the UK from The Wine Treasury at £35.90 a bottle on www.winetreasury.com 90 points
As you can see, the wines are not cheap, although the Gloria Ferrer seems to be the best value for money. Those not available in the UK are unlikely to retail at much under £30, but compared to some Burgundy prices, the top American Pinot Noirs are not out of line. Don't make the mistake of comparing them with Burgundies - the best ones are just as enjoyable in their own way.
