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...Fish dishes lean to the Mediterranean with a “sinfonia di mare” with saffron from La Mancha (it’s that Spain again!) with slices of zucchini and potato in olive oil, or fillets of red mullet with black olives in a lobster sauce and celeriac, or not ‘lean in’ dishes such as sea bream with a mandarin sauce, accompanied by cauliflower and broccoli flowers, or a thick slice of lightly grilled Emperor fish in a passion fruit sauce and black Venere rice.
For meat there is fillet of beef in a cinnamon and clove sauce with porcini and truffled potato, lamb cutlets in a herb crust and a timbale of aubergine, noisettes of venison with pink peppercorns and spätzle (very Swiss!), or you could have breast of pigeon with grapes from Pantelleria, honey and rose vinegar, with a purée of chestnut and a galette of corn. Cheese platter, of course, and a colossal “golose creazioni del Motto” assemblage of all the desserts, as well as some very fine individual ones, too.
Of course, we didn’t eat all these, although we have got through a number on our visits over the year. For me, the outstanding dishes were the goose liver in Malaga, the wonderfully soft and perfectly cooked piece of beef with porcini and truffled potatoes (but the potatoes were not as good as the truffled potatoes I had at Tom Aikens, q.v.) and the “Golose”. Bravo aux chef, who has managed to turn out such high quality with such a big menu.
Which does, perhaps, bring us to a little gripe. The menu is large, about 35 dishes in all and, to perhaps limit the choice, 13 of the 35 (that’s over a third) were only available for a minimum of two people. This is fine for a big party, but for a table of two, the variety is cut down more than somewhat. However, there are plenty of other choices, but if you fancy something and your partner doesn’t, you are a bit stuck.
There are also five different fixed menus of varying types, but once again only one of them (the vegetarian menu) is available for one person only.
The wine list leans heavily on wines from Northern Italy and the Ticino, with the next emphasis being on classical French and a smattering of wines from around the world – lip service to these (not very exciting ones) except for the Spanish section which had good wines but was also quite short on choice. We tried some Ticino wines (to get some more experience of these) but were not particularly impressed.
For meat there is fillet of beef in a cinnamon and clove sauce with porcini and truffled potato, lamb cutlets in a herb crust and a timbale of aubergine, noisettes of venison with pink peppercorns and spätzle (very Swiss!), or you could have breast of pigeon with grapes from Pantelleria, honey and rose vinegar, with a purée of chestnut and a galette of corn. Cheese platter, of course, and a colossal “golose creazioni del Motto” assemblage of all the desserts, as well as some very fine individual ones, too.
Of course, we didn’t eat all these, although we have got through a number on our visits over the year. For me, the outstanding dishes were the goose liver in Malaga, the wonderfully soft and perfectly cooked piece of beef with porcini and truffled potatoes (but the potatoes were not as good as the truffled potatoes I had at Tom Aikens, q.v.) and the “Golose”. Bravo aux chef, who has managed to turn out such high quality with such a big menu.
Which does, perhaps, bring us to a little gripe. The menu is large, about 35 dishes in all and, to perhaps limit the choice, 13 of the 35 (that’s over a third) were only available for a minimum of two people. This is fine for a big party, but for a table of two, the variety is cut down more than somewhat. However, there are plenty of other choices, but if you fancy something and your partner doesn’t, you are a bit stuck.
There are also five different fixed menus of varying types, but once again only one of them (the vegetarian menu) is available for one person only.
The wine list leans heavily on wines from Northern Italy and the Ticino, with the next emphasis being on classical French and a smattering of wines from around the world – lip service to these (not very exciting ones) except for the Spanish section which had good wines but was also quite short on choice. We tried some Ticino wines (to get some more experience of these) but were not particularly impressed.
...Service, led by Piero Tecna was impeccable and the whole place oozed class. Breakfasts were beautifully presented and plentiful with fresh fruit, croissants, ham, cheese, eggs (if you like) – you name it.
The bedrooms are divided into two separate rooms – a sleeping room and a living room. Once again, nothing lacks for comfort and are more than amply heated in the winter. However, the building is old, so it may not be for tall people! This is a place we like to return to as often as we can. Bravo Motto del Gallo!
Food ratings...
Food 45
Winelist 14
Service 10
Ambience 5
Value for Money 12
Total 86
Room ratings...
Accomodation 38
Breakfast 12
Service 10
Ambience 10
Value for Money 13
Total 83
Motto del Gallo Taverne, Lugano CH 6807, Switzerland. Tel: +41 091 945 2871,
Fax +41 091 945 2723.
Email: mottodelgallo@bluewin.ch
Website: www.mottodelgallo.ch
Open for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday.
Open all year.
Credit cards: All major cards
Average à la carte spend (excluding wine): 100-180 SFR. Fixed price menus: 65 to 140 SFR.
Accommodation (4 rooms, all en suite): 118 SFR
(Single) 235 SFR (Double) including breakfast.
The bedrooms are divided into two separate rooms – a sleeping room and a living room. Once again, nothing lacks for comfort and are more than amply heated in the winter. However, the building is old, so it may not be for tall people! This is a place we like to return to as often as we can. Bravo Motto del Gallo!
Food ratings...
Food 45
Winelist 14
Service 10
Ambience 5
Value for Money 12
Total 86
Room ratings...
Accomodation 38
Breakfast 12
Service 10
Ambience 10
Value for Money 13
Total 83
Motto del Gallo Taverne, Lugano CH 6807, Switzerland. Tel: +41 091 945 2871,
Fax +41 091 945 2723.
Email: mottodelgallo@bluewin.ch
Website: www.mottodelgallo.ch
Open for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday.
Open all year.
Credit cards: All major cards
Average à la carte spend (excluding wine): 100-180 SFR. Fixed price menus: 65 to 140 SFR.
Accommodation (4 rooms, all en suite): 118 SFR
(Single) 235 SFR (Double) including breakfast.
