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Ristorante da Mario
Occasionally, but very occasionally, we come across a restaurant which offers outstanding value for money - Ristorante da Mario.

Just five minutes walk from Genoa's Principe railway station, down a little alleyway, is where you will find this remarkable eatery. Aldo Russo bought it from Mario about twenty years ago, but it is still called and still known as "Mario", a Genoese institution if ever there was one.

The restaurant is quite unprepossessing, but there is a buzz - of people. There's no point trying to book (unless you are a party of 10 or more) - you just turn up - and if you are lucky you won't have to wait too long before you get a table. Regulars are quite happy to share a table with you if you like. There is a menu - translated into English as well - but the best thing to do is to look on the daily specials board. Although there is fish - Orata (Sea Bream), Sole, Seafood, etc., there are, unusually for Genoa, quite a lot of meat dishes, too.

They take your starter order first and go away. You can order the next course later if you still feel hungry. The food is tasty, home made and authentic, but of course lacks any finesse or any pretence of finesse. What you see is what you get. The pasta dishes are impeccably al dente, the meat is tender and the fish is never overcooked, although the seafood can be, on occasions. Sweets for the trolley are as good as you will get in any London tratt.

However, the most remarkable thing about this restaurant are the prices. Starters range from 3 to 4 euros and main courses from 3 to 6. Last time we were there Aldo offered us some spaghetti with lobster - we thought we might get a few bits of lobster in the sauce with the spaghetti, but we got half a lobster each.

...When we came to pay the bill, Aldo apologised for the expense (after all, it was lobster) and charged us all of 10 euros each for it! That dish would be 40 euros anywhere else!

As far as wine goes, the best wine to drink is the Verdicchio di Castello di Jesi, six whole euros here versus 15 quid at least in any London restaurant. For red drinkers, there is a passable Chianti at six euros, but the house wines are virtually undrinkable. Alcoholics can make up for this by trying some of Aldo's home made Limoncello, which has quite a bite, but a little on the sweet side. A great way to finish, though.

We don't think we have come across a better value restaurant anywhere in Europe.

Restaurant Ratings...  
Food   30
Winelist    2
Service   9
Ambience    5
Value for money 15+
Total    61

Ristorante da Mario, Salita S. Paola 38, Genoa.
Tel: 010 25 64 69
Open for lunch and dinner.
Closed: Wednesday and maybe Christmas Day!
Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard
(But at these prices?)
Average à la carte spend: 10-15 euros, with wine!


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