La Marine is the bistro in Kelly’s Hotel as opposed to the more formal Beaches restaurant. However, conventional wisdom says that this bistro is every bit as good. Well, we haven’t tried Beaches yet, but we can state that La Marine is a good, modern, eatery and well worth a visit.
The restaurant is quite large but the tables are small, although they are well spaced. But it is the food upon which we must concentrate in this establishment. The short menu has a thoroughly modern construction, but we were a little surprised at the paucity of seafood dishes in a place which is so close to the sea.
Notwithstanding that, a starter of stir-fried squid with linguini was accurately cooked (the linguini were al dente and the squid was not) with a nice uplifting, spicy and garlicky sauce, whilst a smoked salmon mousse was a little on the bland side. Duck confit was perfectly executed, and venison steak was, for the most part tender, but the accompanying bouquet of vegetables was a little cold. A bit of lack of co-ordination there. Desserts were rich and satisfying but the cheeseboard was underwhelming.