| hotels | restaurants | recipes | wines | travel | events | small print | latest news | malessere | feedback | products | ordering |
| blog | about us | privacy | sitemap | home | © Bacchus and Comus, and Croque-en-Bouche Site problem? Tell us please |
| blog | about us | privacy | sitemap | home | © Bacchus and Comus, and Croque-en-Bouche Site problem? Tell us please |
What’s it like to be a three star Michelin icon? We have to admit, it has been a long time since we visited one, but a desire to see the new, highest bridge in Europe spanning the river Tarn, near the town of Millau in southern France, found us just a detour from such an establishment, let alone thinking that it might vaut le voyage.
So, we phoned and we booked into Le Jardin des Sens, a smart edifice in a quiet suburb of Montpelier. Now, we have been to Montpelier a few times, to visit the up-and-coming wine producers in the Languedoc (as well as some pretty awful ones) and we have eaten in restaurants there, but it never occurred to us that this town could boast of such a gastronomic temple.
I later discussed this with a friend in Bordeaux, who shall be nameless, who said that – yes – he had heard of it, but thought that Michelin felt an obligation to giving such an accolade in the area, since there was nothing else of any note for miles around. Well, he would, wouldn’t he, being a bit of a gastrosnob from Bordeaux, but I decided not to ask him how many three star restaurants there were in Bordeaux, or, for that matter, miles around there.
We digress. The restaurant is a huge terraced space overlooking the gardens and immediately gives a feeling of theatre coupled with spaciousness and comfort. Staff abound everywhere, but are perhaps not quite as attentive as one might wish in such an exalted establishment. Still, there are always plenty of customers to look after, as those three stars are an obvious draw.
So, we phoned and we booked into Le Jardin des Sens, a smart edifice in a quiet suburb of Montpelier. Now, we have been to Montpelier a few times, to visit the up-and-coming wine producers in the Languedoc (as well as some pretty awful ones) and we have eaten in restaurants there, but it never occurred to us that this town could boast of such a gastronomic temple.
I later discussed this with a friend in Bordeaux, who shall be nameless, who said that – yes – he had heard of it, but thought that Michelin felt an obligation to giving such an accolade in the area, since there was nothing else of any note for miles around. Well, he would, wouldn’t he, being a bit of a gastrosnob from Bordeaux, but I decided not to ask him how many three star restaurants there were in Bordeaux, or, for that matter, miles around there.
We digress. The restaurant is a huge terraced space overlooking the gardens and immediately gives a feeling of theatre coupled with spaciousness and comfort. Staff abound everywhere, but are perhaps not quite as attentive as one might wish in such an exalted establishment. Still, there are always plenty of customers to look after, as those three stars are an obvious draw.
...The kitchen is run by twin brothers, Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, who opened the restaurant in 1988 after having both worked in some of the finest kitchens in France.
They were joined by Olivier Château, who looks after the front of house and all other aspects of management. In 1998 they received the ultimate accolade of three Michelin stars, and since then have been busying themselves in creating a global gastronomic empire. More of that in...
They were joined by Olivier Château, who looks after the front of house and all other aspects of management. In 1998 they received the ultimate accolade of three Michelin stars, and since then have been busying themselves in creating a global gastronomic empire. More of that in...
Here is a fairly lengthy à la carte menu where you might find sautéed scallops in a salad of Provençal asparagus with a a warm vinaigrette of Sauternes with truffle shavings, little raviolis of foie gras with cêpes and Parmesan, and a purée of baby artichokes in a chicken bouillon flavoured with cêpes, accompanied with artichoke chips. Or a carpaccio of pig’s trotter with a mixture of cooked and raw baby artichokes, a salad with oyster and tourteau crab in a balsamic vinegar reduction as starters. An escalope of warm duck foie gras, with a millefeuille of apple and passion fruit on pain d’épices in a muscat syrup, garnished with baby spinach was perfect in its execution and presentation, but a dish of large roasted gambas (and they were large – almost the size of a crawfish) on a salad of noodles made with squid ink, rocket with oil and pesto, an emulsion of yogurt and confit tomatoes, were just a bit overcooked. As you can see, these starters are very complicated, but the standards were very high, (as were the prices – around €40- 60 each).
