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Aberaeron’s harbour, on Cardigan Bay in West Wales, competes with many a continental fishing village in ‘picturesqueness’, and the fact that nearly all the staff at this hotel are Welsh-speaking, makes one feel that one might be abroad after all.
On a fine summer’s evening, the Harbourmaster bar was heaving with locals. And the residents of the seven bedrooms joined in before sitting down to dinner in the contemporary-styled restaurant. Forget ‘olde worldy’ charm, this has a modern feel about it that could well compete with some of London’s swingingest restaurants.
But, as you all know, we’re not here to admire the chintz, (of which there is none), but to get down to assessing the food, wine, service and atmosphere. Seven or eight starters, and the same number of main courses are the ideal number to execute the philosophy of “all our meals are freshly prepared, using local produce where possible”. But as always, the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and in this case we were pleasantly surprised by the quality produced on a busy night.
A chicken liver and brandy parfait was delicately made, although an old soak like me might have preferred a bit more evidence of the brandy! However, the accompanying pickled vegetables did nothing for it and, in fact, detracted from the enjoyment of the glass of Bordeaux rosé I chose to drink with it, because of the extreme acidity of the pickle. I know the French like to have their cornichons with their pâtes and terrines. They are usually very crisp, but these pickled vegetables were soggy and acid.
Chargrilled squid was accompanied with another wine-challenging dressing of citrus and chilli, but the glass of Albariño from Northern Spain rose to the occasion handsomely this time. The squid was perfectly cooked, with just enough firmness to avoid making the squid taste rubbery.
Continuing on the path of going for local produce, the New Quay lobster thermidor was again perfectly cooked – so many times we’ve had overcooked lobster, but not this time. Eating it was thoughtfully made easy by cutting out the flesh and putting it back in the shell (including the claw meat) and the accompanying rocket and Parmesan salad offset the richness of the sauce very well.
On a fine summer’s evening, the Harbourmaster bar was heaving with locals. And the residents of the seven bedrooms joined in before sitting down to dinner in the contemporary-styled restaurant. Forget ‘olde worldy’ charm, this has a modern feel about it that could well compete with some of London’s swingingest restaurants.
But, as you all know, we’re not here to admire the chintz, (of which there is none), but to get down to assessing the food, wine, service and atmosphere. Seven or eight starters, and the same number of main courses are the ideal number to execute the philosophy of “all our meals are freshly prepared, using local produce where possible”. But as always, the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and in this case we were pleasantly surprised by the quality produced on a busy night.
A chicken liver and brandy parfait was delicately made, although an old soak like me might have preferred a bit more evidence of the brandy! However, the accompanying pickled vegetables did nothing for it and, in fact, detracted from the enjoyment of the glass of Bordeaux rosé I chose to drink with it, because of the extreme acidity of the pickle. I know the French like to have their cornichons with their pâtes and terrines. They are usually very crisp, but these pickled vegetables were soggy and acid.
Chargrilled squid was accompanied with another wine-challenging dressing of citrus and chilli, but the glass of Albariño from Northern Spain rose to the occasion handsomely this time. The squid was perfectly cooked, with just enough firmness to avoid making the squid taste rubbery.
Continuing on the path of going for local produce, the New Quay lobster thermidor was again perfectly cooked – so many times we’ve had overcooked lobster, but not this time. Eating it was thoughtfully made easy by cutting out the flesh and putting it back in the shell (including the claw meat) and the accompanying rocket and Parmesan salad offset the richness of the sauce very well.
...A selection of outstanding Welsh cheeses and a short selection of desserts complete the menu, although the desserts did not look particularly inspiring.
Apart from the restaurant, you can have ‘tapas’ in the bar (compulsory on Sunday evenings since the restaurant is closed – and then it is only available to residents) which consist of a selection of small dishes – local prawns in garlic butter, moules marinière, local goat’s cheese in filo pastry, grilled Mediterranean vegetables, fat Irish oysters, for example – all tastily and well prepared.
The wine list is fairly comprehensive, but most of the choices are geared to the under £20 mark, which seems to be an obsession with some of the guides. Whilst a number of these do represent good value, there is a lack of good quality wines, albeit that they would have to appear at higher prices. But if you want a good and interesting wine list – this what you have to do. Glyn explained to me that there is no industry around, so basically people who come are spending their own money, rather than the firm’s. But nevertheless, the addition of more quality to the wine list, may make those interested in wine beat a path to his door, especially if the mark-ups are not greedy, as has been proven elsewhere in remote places all over the country.
Restaurant Ratings...
Food 40
Winelist 12
Service 9
Ambience 5
Value for Money 14
Total 80
Gwesty’r Harbwr (The Harbourmaster Hotel), Pen Cai, Aberaeron, Cardigan Bay, Wales SA46 0BA
Phone: 01545 570755 Fax 01545 570762
E-mail: info@harbour-master.com
www.harbour-master.com Open: all year.
Rooms 7 all en suite
Prices £55 single up to £115 for the suite. Also a cottage for £150 (two rooms, sleeps five).
Check their web site or telephone for two-night packages on offer.
Credit cards: all major cards.
Apart from the restaurant, you can have ‘tapas’ in the bar (compulsory on Sunday evenings since the restaurant is closed – and then it is only available to residents) which consist of a selection of small dishes – local prawns in garlic butter, moules marinière, local goat’s cheese in filo pastry, grilled Mediterranean vegetables, fat Irish oysters, for example – all tastily and well prepared.
The wine list is fairly comprehensive, but most of the choices are geared to the under £20 mark, which seems to be an obsession with some of the guides. Whilst a number of these do represent good value, there is a lack of good quality wines, albeit that they would have to appear at higher prices. But if you want a good and interesting wine list – this what you have to do. Glyn explained to me that there is no industry around, so basically people who come are spending their own money, rather than the firm’s. But nevertheless, the addition of more quality to the wine list, may make those interested in wine beat a path to his door, especially if the mark-ups are not greedy, as has been proven elsewhere in remote places all over the country.
Restaurant Ratings...
Food 40
Winelist 12
Service 9
Ambience 5
Value for Money 14
Total 80
Gwesty’r Harbwr (The Harbourmaster Hotel), Pen Cai, Aberaeron, Cardigan Bay, Wales SA46 0BA
Phone: 01545 570755 Fax 01545 570762
E-mail: info@harbour-master.com
www.harbour-master.com Open: all year.
Rooms 7 all en suite
Prices £55 single up to £115 for the suite. Also a cottage for £150 (two rooms, sleeps five).
Check their web site or telephone for two-night packages on offer.
Credit cards: all major cards.
