Set amidst 24 acres of parkland on the Gower peninsular, this is an ideal spot for walkers and hikers. And so may it be, as you will need that hike in order to wear off the excesses of food and wine available at this luxury eight bedroomed hotel so beloved of Hollywood stars of Welsh descent. In what is almost de rigeur for a ‘Country House Hotel’, you practically need a degree in orientation to find it, but at the end, it is all worthwhile.
The cuisine is good solid country house fare, without being daring or spectacular, but there is a tendency to overcook the ingredients, leaving a little dryness in the mouth. Such was a starter of scallop, monkfish and salmon, and the fact that some of the ingredients were deep-fried didn't help either. Other starters such as, Salad of goat's cheese, melon and Parma ham, and Terrine of confit duck, represent ‘safe’ alternatives.
There is the now mandatory vegetarian main course (tartelette of local ceps and girolles, when we were there), local fish and meat dishes. Hommage to ‘London Modern British’ and fusion cuisine may be seen in suprême of free-range chicken, peanut crust, linguini, mango and chilli dressing, as well as calves’ liver with mash and onion marmalade, but we had the organic Welsh lamb, sausage, cawl, vegetables and jus (the lamb was cooked just past pink as requested), but the sausage was a little overgrilled. Choice of desserts are heavily weighted to the carbohydrate brigade (no doubt for the heavily-weighted customers) and those with an eye on la ligne are best to stick with the excellent selection of Welsh cheeses.
The wine list is a tour de force although if we do have a criticism, it does lean towards the "safe" choices, but that is really being picky. However, if you take the trouble to look through the list in detail, you can find some hidden gems, just as we did with a Silex Vouvray and a lovely half-bottle of Vin de Paille, which went excellently with our cheeses.