Last year we realised a dream trip we always wanted to do: the Galapagos, 1000kms. away from the coast of Ecuador, taking three or four days in Ecuador itself. The majority of agents, including ours, recommended a five-star hotel in the new part of Quito, where all the modern shops, hotels and facilities are located. We thought that was the norm until reading the guides we discovered the old city, situated three or four kms. from these hotels, a gem well worth visiting. We requested a hacienda in the old city, despite warnings (totally unfounded) that the area might not be very safe. How right we were!

 

The Hacienda, Patio Andaluz where we stayed, was steeped in history and mixed in with the foundation of the state of Ecuador and is a typical colonial hacienda. The food was almost very South American, with the most amazing fish and seafood ceviche you can imagine. The Piazza Grande, the main square, is two minutes walk, on a road constantly guarded by police, and plain clothes guards; so we felt very safe even at night.

 

The old city is absolutely magic at night with beautiful lighting, and horse and cart tours. You need at least a full day to visit the beautiful cloisters, churches and buildings, and an evening or two to visit the city by night, and a couple of exciting restaurants. We decided not to visit Otovalo market: the biggest native market in South America. Instead we visited some hot springs and volcanos in Pallalacta. The ride was beautiful, and the walk across rain forests most invigorating. We also visited Cotopaxi, a beautiful volcano, high up in the clouds, always full of snow. The exciting bit is travelling part of the way on the roof of the train, stopping at an old hacienda for a traditional breakfast and back on the roof of the train until we reached a certain height. This ride was one of the most exhilarating trips, with a full 360 degree viewing point; nothing could be better. And believe it or not, Cotopaxi decided to show itself in its full glory that day.

 

 Quito has a few good restaurants. ‘Mea Culpa’ is supposed to be the best, and indeed we had a very good meal there, seafood, kid and suckling pig. It’s on the Plaza Grande inside an old palace with other restaurants. There we also had a simpler, and cheaper, but very good meal at a restaurant called, “Hasta la Vuelta Señor”. Prawns, lobsters, and fish are of excellent quality and fresh. And the ceviche is even better than earlier.

 

We wish we had had more time to visit Quito and some other regions of Ecuador. It is a delightful country, but… beware of some very resourceful pickpockets working in gangs of two or three. One distracts you, one smiles at you and the third makes off with your belongings!

 

 Of course the Galapagos are the highlight of any trip to Ecuador and cruises are so safe that you happily leave your room door open all the time. We booked our seven 7 day cruise of the islands with a local operator via the Internet – with Metropolitan Touring, who own a few touring boats as well as acting as a local mine of information on Ecuador itself. The food on the ship we chose to go on, the Santa Cruz, was good, and the seafood included excellent fresh lobsters. You need no less than seven days to visit most of the islands, which are not only a safe paradise for so many breeds of birds, sea lions, iguanas tortoises, lizards, etc., but geologically are a wonder. Here we have an iguana, a frigate bird courting and some blue-footed boobies plus a lonely penguin. The array of unspoilt wildlife is a wonder to behold, the only drawback could be the number of other tourists at popular times of the year. But nevertheless, it is a trip of a lifetime.

 

To get there it is best to make your own arrangements for flying to Quito – there are so many Internet sites where you can book flights these days. But it’s always best to check on the airline’s own web site as well once you have decided which one suits you best. We flew with Iberia, mainly to avoid flying via the USA with all their tiresome security procedures even for travellers who are just passing through, but there are several options. For internal travelling within Ecuador and for getting to the Galapagos, you could do no better than leaving it in the capable hands of Metropolitan Touring, www.metropolitan-touring.com.