| hotels | restaurants | recipes | wines | travel | small print | latest news | malessere | feedback | products | ordering |
| blog | about us | privacy | sitemap | home | © Bacchus and Comus, and Croque-en-Bouche Site problem? Tell us please |
| blog | about us | privacy | sitemap | home | © Bacchus and Comus, and Croque-en-Bouche Site problem? Tell us please |
For centuries, Portugal’s Douro Valley has been renowned for its fortified wines. Some of the greatest Port Houses have supplied the British, Other European and New World markets with superlative pre- and after dinner drinking. In recent years, however, a quiet revolution has been taking place there and a new generation of winemakers have been turning their minds and skills to making top quality table wines from the classic Port grape varieties.
At a recent tasting at the Portuguese Embassy in London, 17 of the top producers showed some 50 wines to a gathering of professional tasters. Having only a limited experience of dry wines from the Douro Valley, I was particularly interested in finding out whether there were any wines of outstanding quality.
Although quality varied from producer to producer and from vintage to vintage (2002 was really a bit of a dog) and whilst there were a number of wines which had, for me, too much of a "Porty" character, there were indeed some wines that could hold court with some of the best in the world, although they could be hardly described as value for money. Still, one shouldn't forget the old adage that you get what you pay for.
As is the usual custom, I list here below my notes on only those wines that scored 90 points or more.
1. “Charme” 2002 - Niepoort Vinhos
This is a most remarkable wine with a great deal of finesse and far and away the best 2002 vintage wine in the room and pretty much the best overall wine. It is the brainchild of Dirk van der Niepoort, of the Niepoort Port House, and whilst made entirely from indigenous grapes, it is almost Burgundian (Dirk's favourite wine region - after the Douro, of course!) in taste and texture - a remarkable achievement.
This is a very elegant wine with a great deal of finesse, (something for which the Douro region is not necessarily noted for), just like good Burgundy should be! Naturally, it is not cheap - around £45 a bottle if you could lay your hands on one. It has become one of Portugal's ‘cult’ wines and is generally sold out before it is released. Put your name on the waiting list with Raymond Reynolds Ltd.
E-mail: info@raymondreynolds.co.uk 95 points
2. Duas Quintas Reserva Especial 2000 - Ramos Pinto
This is the tête de cuvée of a series of Duas Quintos labelled wines ranging from the bog standard at £6.99, through the Reservas, to this Reserva Especial at over 40 quid.
At a recent tasting at the Portuguese Embassy in London, 17 of the top producers showed some 50 wines to a gathering of professional tasters. Having only a limited experience of dry wines from the Douro Valley, I was particularly interested in finding out whether there were any wines of outstanding quality.
Although quality varied from producer to producer and from vintage to vintage (2002 was really a bit of a dog) and whilst there were a number of wines which had, for me, too much of a "Porty" character, there were indeed some wines that could hold court with some of the best in the world, although they could be hardly described as value for money. Still, one shouldn't forget the old adage that you get what you pay for.
As is the usual custom, I list here below my notes on only those wines that scored 90 points or more.
1. “Charme” 2002 - Niepoort Vinhos
This is a most remarkable wine with a great deal of finesse and far and away the best 2002 vintage wine in the room and pretty much the best overall wine. It is the brainchild of Dirk van der Niepoort, of the Niepoort Port House, and whilst made entirely from indigenous grapes, it is almost Burgundian (Dirk's favourite wine region - after the Douro, of course!) in taste and texture - a remarkable achievement.
This is a very elegant wine with a great deal of finesse, (something for which the Douro region is not necessarily noted for), just like good Burgundy should be! Naturally, it is not cheap - around £45 a bottle if you could lay your hands on one. It has become one of Portugal's ‘cult’ wines and is generally sold out before it is released. Put your name on the waiting list with Raymond Reynolds Ltd.
E-mail: info@raymondreynolds.co.uk 95 points
2. Duas Quintas Reserva Especial 2000 - Ramos Pinto
This is the tête de cuvée of a series of Duas Quintos labelled wines ranging from the bog standard at £6.99, through the Reservas, to this Reserva Especial at over 40 quid.
...Despite its relative youth, it is remarkably smooth with all the characteristics of a dry Port without the excessive ‘Porty-ness’ found in a number of other wines at the tasting. A very limited supply can be obtained through the agents, Maisons, Marques and Domaines by contacting: mark.bingley@mmdltd.co.uk 94 points
3. Duas Quintas Reserva 2000 - Ramos Pinto
Nice structure and fullness in the mouth. Softish tannins makes this attractive to drink now and is more approachable than the Especial. So is the price at around £20, half of that of the Especial, which makes this relatively good value. Stockists as above. 92 points
4. Quinto da Leda 2000 - Casa Ferreirinha (SOGRAPE)
This is very smooth and concentrated with goodish length and a fullness in the mouth which is most pleasant.
Although part of a big organisation (SOGRAPE, which produces, amongst other wines, Mateus Rosé), the Quinta da Leda team concentrates on quality as befits an estate located in the Douro Superior area which is planted with top native varieties including various Touriga Nacional clones. At around £20, details of stockists can be found by contacting the agents, Berkmann Wine Cellars Ltd at info@berkmann.co.uk 92 points
5. Batuta 2001 - Niepoort Vinhos
Dirk Niepoort's original cult wine, first produced in 1999. This vintage shows elegance with high acidity and good persistence on the palate. It's also a little spicy, too and like the Charme above, quite atypical. Nevertheless, this doesn't detract from the quality and if you can get hold of some at - hold your breath - £45, you won't be wasting your money. Details from Raymond Reynolds
E-mail: info@raymondreynolds.co.uk 92 points
6. Altano Reserva 2002 - The Symington Family
One of the best of the 2002’s in the room - this wine is still a little tight and closed up, but there is good fruit beneath the tannins, which promises a light and elegant wine in due course. As a lighter vintage this shouldn't take too long to come round. At around £9 a bottle this is certainly one of the best value wines of the area. Details of stockists from John E. Fells & Sons Ltd.: info@fells.co.uk 92 points
3. Duas Quintas Reserva 2000 - Ramos Pinto
Nice structure and fullness in the mouth. Softish tannins makes this attractive to drink now and is more approachable than the Especial. So is the price at around £20, half of that of the Especial, which makes this relatively good value. Stockists as above. 92 points
4. Quinto da Leda 2000 - Casa Ferreirinha (SOGRAPE)
This is very smooth and concentrated with goodish length and a fullness in the mouth which is most pleasant.
Although part of a big organisation (SOGRAPE, which produces, amongst other wines, Mateus Rosé), the Quinta da Leda team concentrates on quality as befits an estate located in the Douro Superior area which is planted with top native varieties including various Touriga Nacional clones. At around £20, details of stockists can be found by contacting the agents, Berkmann Wine Cellars Ltd at info@berkmann.co.uk 92 points
5. Batuta 2001 - Niepoort Vinhos
Dirk Niepoort's original cult wine, first produced in 1999. This vintage shows elegance with high acidity and good persistence on the palate. It's also a little spicy, too and like the Charme above, quite atypical. Nevertheless, this doesn't detract from the quality and if you can get hold of some at - hold your breath - £45, you won't be wasting your money. Details from Raymond Reynolds
E-mail: info@raymondreynolds.co.uk 92 points
6. Altano Reserva 2002 - The Symington Family
One of the best of the 2002’s in the room - this wine is still a little tight and closed up, but there is good fruit beneath the tannins, which promises a light and elegant wine in due course. As a lighter vintage this shouldn't take too long to come round. At around £9 a bottle this is certainly one of the best value wines of the area. Details of stockists from John E. Fells & Sons Ltd.: info@fells.co.uk 92 points
