The castle has been in the hands of the O’Callaghan family for the last 65 years and Denis, aided and abetted by his daughter Marion and son –in-law, Frank Sheedy, (who is also the chef), run a homely and unsophisticated operation near the dramatic cliffs of Moher on the west coast of Ireland.
Frank is an accomplished chef. There is a good choice at dinner, six or seven starters, five or six main courses, and the dishes we chose were well executed. Pan-fried venison sausage with a red onion and plum marmalade was well cooked and presented; and although the sausage itself was a little bland, the marmalade was superbly crafted to compensate this blandness. Prawn spring roll with lemongrass, pickled cucumber and sweet chilli dressing was good, but the pastry was a little on the heavy side. There was also heaviness in the linguini with chorizo, smoked chicken, kidney beans and pecorino cheese. A tian of prawns and smoked salmon garnished with crab claws was a refreshing dish, but the smokiness of the salmon tended to overwhelm the rest of the ingredients.
Scallops simply sautéed au jus were a masterpiece (it’s amazing how often the simplest of dishes turn out to be the best), and the little bouquet of fresh vegetables was so well cooked that we asked for seconds. But at a later meal, the scallops with a ragoût of roasted red pepper, cabbage and chorizo was less impressive. Guinea fowl was accurately cooked with a delicious sauce and the confit of duck leg with honey roast breast, potato and herb stuffing, pineapple and balsamic reduction was very fine, too. The prettily presented cheeseboard was a delight to consume. And desserts, notably the warm Baileys bread and butter pudding with praline ice cream, vanilla custard and caramel syrup showed good intensity of flavours.
The short wine list was not extraordinary, but a selection of “Sommellier’s choice” wines were interesting for those wishing to splash out a bit more on non run-of-the-mill bottles. However, some of the descriptions were incomplete (i.e. a lack of producer names for a number of French wines) and so choices were made more difficult. The prices were very fair.