In our opinion, this is Genoa's best all-round restaurant: good food, good wines served by-the-glass, friendly service and interesting menus to suit all pockets. The downside, unfortunately (and there has to be a downside), is that it is tucked away in a suburb of Genoa which is not easy to reach by public transport, especially late at night - and, on the two occasions that we have been there - it was extremely quiet, thus giving the impression of a lack of atmosphere. Let's hope that chef Luca Collami and his team can stick it out until Baldin becomes much more well known internationally.
Kicking off with a selection of various home-made breads already creates a favourable atmosphere. As with most restaurants in Genoa, the menu is dominated by fish dishes - here they outnumber meat dishes by seven to one. Antipasti include carpaccio of varying fish, tuna, oysters, foie gras and truffles in season, as well as the Cappon Magro, a kind of Genoese speciality plate of mixed seafood and fish with cold vegetables and a spinach sauce.
Just about everything you can think of that comes in a shell is also represented. Pasta dishes lean on fishy sauces, but the black taglierini with artichokes, cooked perfectly al dente, was one of the non fishy dishes we had. Main courses include little red mullets, delicately baked with artichokes and a cheesy sauce, the famous Stoccafisso d'Arsena, a kind of salt cod dish considered to be one of the local delicacies, and lots of local fish and seafood - the choice is profound, but the menu is not too large.