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Baldin
In our opinion, this is Genoa's best all-round restaurant: good food, good wines served by-the-glass, friendly service and interesting menus to suit all pockets. The downside, unfortunately (and there has to be a downside), is that it is tucked away in a suburb of Genoa which is not easy to reach by public transport, especially late at night - and, on the two occasions that we have been there - it was extremely quiet, thus giving the impression of a lack of atmosphere. Let's hope that chef Luca Collami and his team can stick it out until Baldin becomes much more well known internationally.

Kicking off with a selection of various home-made breads already creates a favourable atmosphere. As with most restaurants in Genoa, the menu is dominated by fish dishes - here they outnumber meat dishes by seven to one. Antipasti include carpaccio of varying fish, tuna, oysters, foie gras and truffles in season, as well as the Cappon Magro, a kind of Genoese speciality plate of mixed seafood and fish with cold vegetables and a spinach sauce.

Just about everything you can think of that comes in a shell is also represented. Pasta dishes lean on fishy sauces, but the black taglierini with artichokes, cooked perfectly al dente, was one of the non fishy dishes we had. Main courses include little red mullets, delicately baked with artichokes and a cheesy sauce, the famous Stoccafisso d'Arsena, a kind of salt cod dish considered to be one of the local delicacies, and lots of local fish and seafood - the choice is profound, but the menu is not too large.
...The lone meat dish might be pork or game (in season), but our recommendation is to stick to the fish. After all, that's what Genoa is really all about. There is, of course, cheese if you want it and there is a fair selection of beautifully presented desserts.

The wine list is a joy, but what gives it its plus point are the number of wines you can have by-the-glass. Luca's uncle will guide you through the menu, choosing suitable wines to match the dishes, if you want, and certainly on both occasions we were there, he did this for us with excellent results. There were a number of obscure Italian wines we tasted, which were excellent and in our opinion, you could do no better than to put yourself in his hands. Won't be ripped off either. All in all, an excellent gastronomic experience, reasonably priced for what you get. Make the effort to go there.

Restaurant Ratings...  
Food   42
Winelist   16
Service   9
Ambience    3
Value for money 12
Total    82

Baldin Ristorante Piazza Tazzoli 20r, Sestri Ponente, Genova. Tel: 010 653 1400
Open:lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Saturday. Closed, August. Credit cards: Visa Mastercard, Diners.
Average a la carte spend:40-50 euros. Fixed price menus: 30 to 100 euros ( "little but good" or a blowout!)
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