The eponymous 63 Tay Street restaurant of a street of that ilk in bucolic Perth, is the place to head for in that area, before you tackle the real highlands of Scotland. Situated on the wrong side of the road flanking the river Tay (so you can't really get a good view of it), this is a busy, local restaurant - one of the best in the area, so it's going to be wise to book in advance.
Jeremy and Shona Wares had spent enough time working for others in top class catering establishments, when they decided to set up on their own in their native Scotland five years ago. They quickly built up a reputation for savvy food and wine at savvy prices and their small, rectangular dining room plays host to an increasing number of savvy locals and tourists alike.
The Dinner Menu has about five starters, five main courses and five desserts, with an additional three dishes after the starter section called "to follow". However, you can really have anything from any section - it's all very flexible - and you are charged according to how many courses you have - 2 courses £20.95, 3 courses £25.50 and 4 courses £27.95. Presumably you could have more and you would probably get an even better price per course. But Jeremy's portions are designed for rugby players. There is a £3 supplement for the fillet of beef, but presumably it's there to persuade the gastronomically unwashed to try something else.
Starters may include a chicken liver and foie gras parfait with onion chutney and toasted brioche - very smooth with the onion chutney setting off a nice bit of spiciness against the parfait. Or seared scallops with herb salad, lentil and coriander sauce - a dish we have seen elsewhere in a similar format, but nevertheless, extremely well executed by Jeremy. Apart from the fillet of beef with shallot purée, spring vegetables and thyme jus, both loin of Glen Isla venison with braised red cabbage, and fillet of halibut with crushed potatoes, spinach, fennel and hollandaise showed a deal of accuracy in their execution.
Home-made sorbets and ice creams show good intensity of flavour, whilst rhubarb crème brûlée with a rhubarb sorbet is a great combination of two rather boring ingredients to prove that 2 + 2 can sometimes make 5. Other desserts are strictly for the trencherman.
The lunch menu (two courses £12.95, three courses £15.50) can include as starters, a wild garlic and potato soup with crème fraîche, or steamed Shetland mussels with chilli, coriander and ginger, a welcome change from boring old moules marinières. Other exotica on the main courses feature marinated leg of lamb with aubergine pesto, mash, rocket and rosemary jus.